Johnny Mills has spent the past year and a half creating a buzz with a successful run of pop-ups in Birmingham. But, after the closure of his much-loved The Tame Hare in Leamington Spa, he’s now ready to return to a permanent bricks-and-mortar restaurant. Sǣl is remarkably different, however, as an intimate chef’s counter in the Jewellery Quarter.
Described as “intimate, immersive and deeply rooted in the seasons”, Johnny will launch his new counter restaurant at The Goodsyard development this autumn. Sǣl will seat only eight people, with a single sitting per service, around an elegant kitchen counter—where the art of conversation is given as much importance as the cooking itself.
Speaking of which, Sǣl’s singular tasting menu will be driven by hyper-seasonal produce and the finest local suppliers. Johnny’s cooking is best described as precise, restrained and deeply respectful of its ingredients. Plus, waste is also minimised, with clever preservation techniques and an inventive drinks programme ensuring that no part is left behind.
In one dish, turnip is used as a raw, bitter crunch in a white crab tartlet, while its roasted trimmings are steeped into a smoked dashi for poached cod. Elsewhere, a whole lamb is broken down and spread across the menu: belly braised and served with preserved wild garlic; fat rendered into an indulgent post-dinner fudge; and prime cuts paired with smoked offal sausage.
Meanwhile, a thoughtful, waste-conscious drinks programme—from Asher Beardsmore (Couch, Opheem, Tropea)—will offer an ever-changing drinks menu that mirrors the spirit of the kitchen. While Sǣl’s interior will also echo its ethos with soft furnishings, natural textures and art sourced from local galleries.
To be part of Sǣl’s development, you can also take part in a crowdfunding campaign that you can learn more about here.